This was our first real wine trip.That sounds serious, doesn't it? You might picture a hardworking wine-focused holiday: long days, endless winery visits, early mornings, two small children in tow, and everything centred around wine. The reality? A wonderful family adventure, exploring Piemonte with the kids while enjoying some exceptional wines along the way. The best of both worlds.
We travelled to Piemonte with one goal in mind: finding that special wine. Our great love from the region. Barbaresco. Less famous than its big brother Barolo, yet made from exactly the same grape: Nebbiolo. Where Barolo is often known for its power and structure, Barbaresco tends to be more elegant, approachable and refined. There is a reason it is often referred to as the Queen of Piemonte.
Part of that difference comes from Barbaresco's slightly warmer microclimate, which allows the grapes to ripen earlier. The regulations also favour the impatient wine lover. Under strict DOCG rules, Barbaresco must be aged for a minimum of 26 months, while Barolo requires at least 36 months. Perfect if you have a wine cellar, patience and self-discipline. But if you'd rather enjoy your carefully chosen bottle sooner rather than later, Barbaresco is often ready to reward you immediately.
One Street, Endless Wine
So off we went to the village of Barbaresco. Calling it a village may be slightly ambitious. It's really more like a single street. A wonderful street, though. Small, charming and home to some beautiful wineries, as well as the famous Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. This unique tasting room is housed inside a beautiful former church, bringing together wines from across the region. That alone is worth the visit.
Barbaresco is much more than a picturesque wine village. It lends its name to one of Italy's most respected wines and sits in the heart of the Langhe, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape beloved by wine enthusiasts, walkers and cyclists alike. Rolling hills, limestone-rich soils and perfect sun exposure. This is Nebbiolo country.
Hide-and-seek in Barbaresco
While we were busy tasting wines, our children had completely different priorities. They wanted to run, play and explore rather than sit quietly while Mum and Dad discussed tannins and terroir. Fair enough. It was February, so the village was wonderfully peaceful. Near the iconic Torre di Barbaresco, Manuel decided to play hide-and-seek with the children while I finished another tasting flight.
By now, it's probably clear that our four-year-old is remarkably good at hide-and-seek. Armed with determination, patience and perhaps a little too much confidence, she found such a perfect hiding place that Manuel genuinely couldn't find her for a moment. Thankfully, someone else had. The owner of a nearby winery, located at the very edge of the village, had spotted exactly what was happening and gently pointed Manuel in the right direction.
That winery was Rocche dei Barbari. And you could argue that our four-year-old discovered it for us. Without her, we may well have walked straight past.
A boutique discovery
Curious, Manuel stepped inside. He found a beautiful, stylish tasting room and immediately thought: "Ilona is going to love this place." He was right.
Rocche dei Barbari is a small, family-run winery with roots dating back to the seventeenth century. They work deliberately and traditionally, ageing their wines in concrete tanks to preserve purity, precision and expression. Their grapes are harvested late, sometimes even later than those of many Barolo producers, in pursuit of exactly the ripeness they seek.
You can taste that philosophy in every glass. The wines are expressive and spicy, developing greater complexity, layered flavours, earthy notes and elegance as they mature. It is the kind of winery that has remained surprisingly under the radar, especially outside Italy. Then again, they were very well hidden. Fortunately, thanks to a determined four-year-old, we found them.
Prima Nebbia: love at first sip
We tasted their Nebbiolo, affectionately named Prima Nebbia, meaning First Mist. The name refers to the autumn fog that hangs between the hills when the grapes are harvested. It wasn't the first winery we visited on the trip, nor even the first that day. But it was one of those first sips that immediately tells you you're tasting something special.
So special, in fact, that after further tasting we decided to add three of their wines to our collection:
- Prima Nebbia 2021
- Prima Nebbia 2015 (yes, really, from 2015)
- Barbaresco Classico 2020, a truly exceptional vintage
These are boutique wines produced in very limited quantities. Until now, they have mainly been available through the winery's own boutique in Barbaresco and a handful of carefully selected international retailers. And now, you can find them at Wijnatelier Amsterdam as well.
These are wines for special occasions. Or for those moments when you'd really like to impress your guests. Either way, don't wait too long. Sometimes you have to lose something, if only for a moment 😉, before you discover something truly extraordinary.
It's wine for special moments. Or if you really want to impress your guests. But either way: be quick. Sometimes you have to lose something (just for a moment 😉) to find something very special later.